Hong Kong: Last Look

Hong Kong has great places to visit (their museums are excellent, as are the parks), but for the most part the real draw is just wandering the streets taking it all in. Here's some photos I took: 

Street in Kowloon: huge tropical trees and double-decker bus (British influence at work)

Chinese medicine store, decorated Chinese-style: brilliant neon lighting, very boxy aesthetic and jammed as full as possible

Hong Kong is older than Singapore and thus full of crumbling 1970s buildings

More Chinese medicine: dried lizards on a stick, fungus, wolfberries (I think that's the English name? they put them in rice porridge, especially in the winter: it's supposed to be healthy for children)

Space is at a premium in Hong Kong so everything is cramped. This is actually two stores: the one on the right is about the size of my closet.

Typical temple: the people of Hong Kong are generally quite religious (especially when compared to mainland China). The red cones are incense, for sale to improve your luck. The desk is the cashier's: Chinese temples are very much money-making operations and all sorts of things are available for the right price.

Horse racing is a huge deal in Hong Kong (because of the associated betting: Chinese people love gambling even if they are generally not very sporty). Here's a line of punters outside one of the many branches of the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

Bamboo is used in the construction of all buildings, even skyscrapers, as scaffolding: this construction worker is constructing it as I watch. Once the job is done, they take it all down and reuse the bamboo on the next project.

Hong Kong is a city of neon. At night this is quite beautiful.

One of the innumerable 'wet markets' (selling fresh food: fruit, vegetables, fish, meat). I like the vegetable displays: there's such variety.

The fish and meat sections are not for the squeamish or those really into hygiene (though Hong Kong is a lot cleaner than mainland China!)

B and I went to a super trendy restaurant of the moment (the wait was over 3 hours and they don't take reservations). All they sell is ramen--the menu has only four options total--and once they run out of ramen, they close, which they did just as we were leaving, disappointing the 50+ people still waiting. It's tiny (this photo shows half of the restaurant: it seats about 10 people) and very Japanese. It was quite a unique experience. The ramen was great BTW. 

And with that, we bid farewell to Hong Kong, flying back to Singapore the next afternoon. The following day, my parents returned to the US. But we weren't too sad, as in less than four weeks, B, R and I would be going there too. 

Hong Kong: Kowloon

So after our time on charming but inconvenient Lamma, my parents, B, R and I switched hotels for a very different experience. We went to stay at the Mira for the rest of our trip, pretty much the polar opposite of the small, funky, family-run one at Lamma.

The 'main' section of Hong Kong is divided into two sections (on two different islands) by Victoria Harbor and the China Sea. One side is Hong Kong Island (slightly older and more historic), the other Kowloon (more shopping and night markets): there isn't really a significant difference between the two, however. The Mira is right in the center of Kowloon, on a subway line and a short walk from the ferry, the harbour and Kowloon Park.

We took the Star Ferry to get there, a quintessential HK experience

View of Victoria Harbour from the ferry

The ferries are old and atmospheric (and cheap! like a quarter)

The Mira is a very chic hotel. The main lobby in particular is really cool-looking (I definitely felt underdressed turning up there sweaty and with sand still in my hair), but so were the rooms (each has a color theme and a sleek, modern appearance; plus they are large by Hong Kong standards).

Our room

R being goofy in the Scandinavian-designed egg chair

Lobby entrance 

Where we ate breakfast

One of the Mira's draws is technology: beyond the standard (free wifi, iPod dock), they provide you with a free cell phone to use during your stay. This was really cool as B and I could then communicate easily with my parents (also good for making reservations). (They also have a lovely pool/gym, a nice rooftop bar and a Michelin starred restaurant for other facilities.)

Mom and R hanging out in the lobby

Weird hallways of the hotel: looks very space age

We got a good deal on the rooms (as we booked them at the last minute) and then our little ambassador R got us free upgrades to rooms with a view of the park (plus a free extension of our stay to allow her to nap at the right times on check out day). Sometimes traveling with a baby is awesome.

View from our room: this bird landed on the sill but I don't know what kind it is

The location was great. My parents found the insanity that is Hong Kong a bit overwhelming, so they really loved taking R to the park (it was right across the street) to see the flamingos (there's an aviary there) and seniors doing tai chi.

One of Hong Kong's better dim sum restaurants was also right nearby (convenient as you must eat dim sum in the morning, not my best time of day).

Parents like dim sum! These buns were especially delicious

I ordered too much as usual

R loved the dim sum too

I would definitely stay at the Mira again and recommend it to anyone visiting Hong Kong, for the cool interior design, the service, and above all the location.

Hong Kong: Lamma Island

Me and R on the beach in Lamma

Even though Hong Kong has such an intensely urban core, its outlying islands are still relatively undeveloped and even rural (over 75% of the territory is open space). My parents love nature and laid-back living (unlike their more urban daughter), so we decided to stay on Lamma Island.

Lamma has a population of 6,000 (mostly fishermen, old hippies or expats looking to get away from it all), no cars or buildings over three stories (they aren't permitted on the island), and one of the nicest beaches in the territory.

Getting there was a bit sticky. We flew out of Singapore in the early afternoon (so that R could nap on the plane=win). After a 4 hour flight, we ate at the airport, then took the high speed train to Central (Hong Kong's downtown district), 30 minutes. Then we had to take a ferry to Lamma (30 minutes, plus wait time). Then we had a 30 minute walk to the hotel.

By this time it was around 10:30 at night, R was exhausted and howling, and it was pouring rain (in typical tropical fashion, meaning torrentially). We slogged along the dark footpath (as Lamma has no motorized transport, we had to walk carrying all our bags, including R's stuff, like a travel crib), lit only by very feeble and occasional lights. As we fumbled along the muddy path through jungly forest echoing with the croaking of frogs, we started to wonder if we'd have to sleep in the shrubbery. We finally found the hotel, with difficulty (given the lack of clear street signs or addresses), but there was no one there (it was a small family owned place and they'd gone to bed). We had no cell phone or change. So B broke into the reception area, we used their phone to call the emergency number (sneakily covering up our break in traces), and finally the host arrived with the keys.

Main harbor/village at Lamma: lots of fishing boats

My mom was not very pleased about the whole thing (she doesn't like uncertainty or discomfort), and was even less pleased upon seeing our rooms, which were tiny, cheap-looking and funky. The location was great though, right on the beach with ocean views. We went swimming every morning in the perfectly warm, clear water.

The view from our room

In the end it was too inconvenient to have a hour of travel each way whenever we wanted to go to the main areas, given R's nap needs and that my parents had never been to Hong Kong before. And my mom hated the hotel. So after only two nights we moved to a very different location, right in central Kowloon.

R having fun on the beach (the structure in back is for the lifeguard)

I loved Lamma though, and would like to go back someday, just to hang out on the island itself. It has a really relaxed vibe, fresh seafood restaurants (selling fish locally caught that very day), cute artsy little stores, and beautiful scenery. Maybe for the Tin Hau festival (patron goddess of fishermen)?

Hong Kong Versus Singapore

Typical Hong Kong street

I love Hong Kong. It's a great travel destination, with something for everyone: amazing food, fascinating street life, good museums, hiking, beaches, possibly the world's best shopping, unique local culture...

It presents an interesting contrast to Singapore. Both places are city-states, made up of densely populated urban centers interspersed with a significant amount of parkland; both are new cities, founded in the 19th century by the British as a money-making enterprise; their populations, while primarily ethnically Chinese, are extremely diverse and cosmopolitan. British cultural influence remains strong in both--the legal system, the driving rules, the colonial outlook, the architecture, even some of the eating habits (morning coffee and toast, for example). A variety of religions is present in both, but their real religion is capitalism, in its purest form.

The funny thing is, even though they are mirror images of each other, the two places are completely different. Hong Kong is like New York: a cultural capital, famous for its style, its media (the movie industry, for instance), its thriving art scene. Basically, Hong Kong is cool. Singapore (despite the government's periodic efforts), is not at all cool. Think of Hong Kong as the intensely sophisticated wealthy businessman (who's made his fortune on acting as an intermediary between the West and China), who collects Ming pottery in his spare time. Singapore is more like the highly educated, intensely competitive, socially awkward quant geek, who's paid an immensely large salary to do complex math, all for the goal of making rich people more money.

Downtown Singapore

Downtown Hong Kong

Typical Singapore street

Singapore is clean and orderly, Hong Kong is chaotic and dirty. Singapore is pastel skyscraper apartment blocks, separated by meticulously groomed gardened areas, and carefully renovated historic buildings now housing restaurants. Hong Kong looks pretty much like the city in Blade Runner, but surrounded by extensive parkland and funky islands full of fishermen and hippie expats. Singapore has almost no crime; Hong Kong is famous for its gangs (the triads) and role as a smuggling center (though violent crime is very low). Both do have really excellent food (guess it's the Chinese heritage, as British cuisine is truly dreadful).

My parents had never been to either place before their visit, so naturally I wanted to take them to both! We spent the last third of their trip there, which I will describe in some following posts.

My Parents Are Coming

My parents are braving the 18-hour-flight and visiting us in Singapore! They will be here May 9th to May 23rd, just about two weeks. I absolutely adore my parents and am so excited because 1. I get to see them; 2. they get to see little R (they LOVE her); 3. they have never been to southeast Asia or Singapore, and will get to see what our lives here are like and 4. it's a good excuse to do many fun things with my favorite people! (And free babysitting and childcare help is pretty nice...)

Beloved parents at Crater Lake

I have big plans to show them everything Singapore has to offer, but am trying not to get too ambitious. They are interested in Singapore of course, but a major reason for their visit is to spend time with R, so I know they will be happy just taking her to the park. I will have to make an effort to strike a good balance between being a good host and providing grandchild access. Luckily my parents are really considerate and flexible, and will go along with whatever I feel like doing.

Me in Kowloon back in 2007

During that time we will be visiting Hong Kong together for four days (three nights). We will be staying on Lamma Island at the Concerto Inn. People not familiar with Hong Kong may not realize this, but "Hong Kong" is actually a collection of islands.

Some are crazily busy and urban, with towering skyscrapers and huge crowds of people (what people usually think of), others contain just a few villages, inhabited by fishermen who still make their living from the sea as they have for hundreds of years. The only way to get to these islands is by ferry or boat, so there are no cars allowed (making for many good walking opportunities).

Lamma is one such island. I visited a different one (Cheung Chau) last time I was in Hong Kong, and loved it (B was ready to move there!), but I've never been to Lamma. Even though it feels remote, it's still in Hong Kong, which means the ride to the center of things takes only half an hour. My mom and I will still be able to get in lots of shopping (Hong Kong is the best place I have ever been for this).

We are also going to Malacca for the weekend (three days). It is another historic city, very similar to George Town in Penang, but far older (the original Sinbad the sailor visited it in the early 1400s, for instance). While Penang is now a major industrial center, modern economic progress has largely passed Malacca by (meaning it is more touristy, but also more preserved). I am excited to see it!

Chinese People as Locusts

I'm from California, so I'm used to a fair amount of anti-immigrant sentiment (especially strong in southern California). It ranges from reasonable objections about crime and drug smuggling due to the porous borders, to the racist and paranoid (fantasies about anchor babies and takeover plans).

Interestingly, this is not an American-only problem. The video below has been making the rounds of the Chinese internet; apparently some Hong Kongers are even harassing Mainlanders on the street by singing the song at them.



Basically, many Hong Kong locals intensely dislike the large numbers of Mainland Chinese who come to Hong Kong legally or otherwise (there is not free travel between the two places; Mainlanders must have a visa to enter, though Hong Kongers can visit China freely). They call them "locusts" and object to their dirty habits, rudeness, loudness, dishonesty, and so on. (To be fair, many of these objections are valid.)

There is of course a political element as well. The government of China wants very much to "assimilate" Hong Kong, which means getting rid of the local culture and replacing it with a Beijing-centric one. Hong Kong has a different language, writing system, and culture (for instance, a free press and a much more vibrant religious scene), and their citizenry unsurprisingly strongly object to these assimilation plans. Hatred for Mainlanders is in part a response to Hong Konger's insecurity about the future of their city and way of life.

It's fascinating how these social problems are so widespread, the poor and pushing trying to improve their lot, and the rich and prosperous trying to defend what they've gotten. (Singapore has a very similar dynamic in many ways.)

Do Not Fly Jetstar Airlines

We got back from Hong Kong last night, frazzled and exhausted. The trip itself was a lot of fun: I love Hong Kong for its exciting city vibe, its fantastic food, the views of the harbor and the hills, and because you can buy anything there (live eels? 1000-year-old antiquities? Gucci purses (real or fake)? swallows' nests? don't worry, Hong Kong has you covered). Unfortunately I had so much fun touring the city that I neglected to give little R her two daily naps (and she went to bed late every day as well), so that by the end of our trip, she was totally exhausted and thus quite unhappy.

In addition, we flew the budget airline Jetstar. It was cheap, which was the only good thing about it. In particular, there is no baggage allowance, so we had to pay $45 each way for our bags (really little R's stuff: babies have lots of baggage despite their size), as I didn't arrange the baggage ahead of time (when it would have been cheaper). Paying the money in itself wasn't a huge deal, but due to the incompetence of Jetstar's staff and organization, it took an hour each way to accomplish that task. Examples of their suckitude: they didn't have a working credit card machine (so we had to make an extra visit to the ATM on the way out of Hong Kong, just to pay their baggage fee); they had to HAND WRITE receipts both ways (which took forever); the airline does not give you water while on board (it costs $3 for a bottle), let alone food or other beverages; they don't have any blankets or pillows available. The flight to/from Hong Kong isn't that bad, about 3.5 hours, but it is too long to be without any water or (edible) food.

The lack of amenities on board was annoying, but if I had been better organized it wouldn't have been a big problem. Having it take an hour just to pay a simple baggage fee, though (in addition to the time spent waiting in line), is inexcusable. Little R was not at all pleased to wait and wailed sadly as we waited in Hong Kong. Perhaps for this reason the airline worker wrote down the wrong terminal on our ticket? (All Jetstar flights leave from the same terminal, so it's hard to understand how she could get it wrong). This added an extra 30 minutes to our travel time. Luckily we still made the flight!

The flight was not especially good (little R cried for the first 30 minutes and the last 45 minutes) but was relatively short. We were all glad to return home.

Traveling is a lot of fun, but it is certainly more exhausting with an infant. This was my first time touristing with little R (on her previous trips we were just visiting family), so it was good to get experience on how I ought to arrange things in the future.

Lessons learned:
Hong Kong is amazing;
little R needs at least one good nap/day (meaning return to the hotel);
little R needs to be in bed by 8 almost every day;
travel essentials include our travel crib and a baby carrier (using the stroller in incredibly crowded Hong Kong would have been a nightmare);
when in Hong Kong, eat as much Cantonese food as you possibly can (because it won't be as good anywhere else);
and traveling with a baby is still lots of fun!

Day 4 in Hong Kong

Yes, these are dried lizards on a stick and starfish: I don't know what they are used for

Our flight left in the afternoon, so we only had the morning free. To maximize our time, we got up early (requiring B to run out and get me a frappuccino from Starbucks: maybe 3 cocktails weren't a good idea after all!), and made our way to Sheung Wan, one of the oldest sections of the city. There we took a walking tour of streets selling traditional Chinese products, including all kinds of ginseng, deer antler, swallows' nests, live snakes (for potency), live frogs (to eat), and many other strange, unidentifiable products. We also saw the famous Hollywood Road (where high end art and antiquities are sold) and the Man Mo Temple, popular with both the police and gangsters (and apparently UPS men; we saw two coming in to worship as we were leaving). Hong Kong is still a pretty religious place (for Chinese religion), so it was interesting to experience a little bit of that.

Then we went to Din Tai Fung for brunch. B and I have been to this dumpling chain in Taiwan, Japan, the US, Singapore and now Hong Kong, and every time the food is amazing (it was named as one of the world's top ten restaurants by the NY Times). The xiaolongbao (delicate little dumplings filled with soup and pork) in particular are so good. If I had to eat only one thing for the rest of my life, this would be a contender.

After a very large meal, we left for the airport (and the tender mercies of Jetstar). It was a great trip, and I hope we can go back someday soon: I love you Hong Kong!

Day 3 in Hong Kong

Cheung Chau Island

Today we decided to venture a little bit farther afield. First we took the subway line all the way to the last stop, in the New Territories, to visit a historic Hakka village. This 200-year-old+ construction housed a village of extended family members (father, sons, cousins, etc.), all of whom would have had the same last name and traced their lineage back to the same ancestor (who was worshiped in their temple, located in the exact center of the compound). Living in this way provided protection and allowed family members to pool resources (for instance, the family funded and ran their own school). This is the way most Chinese lived until very recently. The compound we visited was in use until the 1960s by the same family.

Most of these compounds have now been destroyed by the relentless march of progress, so it was really interesting to see one that has been preserved, and to get a sense of how people in Hong Kong and elsewhere used to live. The changes that have taken place for an average Chinese person in the last 60 years or so are mind-blowing.

Afterwards, we went out for dim sum (which is a type of Cantonese food) at the famous Maxim's. The food was incredible and I have never had better. I only wished I had two stomachs to fit more in. Even the desserts were good (generally I don't like Chinese dessert), including a mango, sago and coconut pudding, and a sesame and coconut cake.

Then we returned to the hotel for a nap, and in the late afternoon, made our way to the ferry docks to catch a boat to Cheung Chau island. The vast majority of Hong Kong (like 90%) is not city, but countryside: parkland, undeveloped beach islands, and even farmland. So we wanted to experience what life is like on one of the smaller, more undeveloped islands.

No cars are allowed on Cheung Chau, which makes any place much pleasanter (and reminds me of how I hate them). It has a much different feel than the main islands, slower, more relaxed and more old-fashioned. We had a great time exploring dozens of tiny winding streets, lined with traditional shops, small shrines to holy rocks and bicycles. As a typhoon warning was up, we couldn't go swimming, but we did walk along the beach, which was beautiful with views of unspoiled hillsides and the China Sea. We had seafood at one of the many restaurants serving fresh-caught fish (a substantial fishing fleet anchors there, as it's still a fishing community). Then we took the ferry back: only a half-hour trip, but what a difference!

B and our friend went out for roast goose at another local dive, but I stayed at the hotel and ate take-away dumplings (they were so good it was amazing) and ordered room service cocktails: very decadent. Even though the cocktails were a little pricey ($9 each), it seemed cheap as alcohol is so expensive in Singapore, so I got three! Luckily they weren't at all strong.

Day 2 in Hong Kong

Little R trying some soy milk (she really likes it)

We had a rather slow start this morning, as we were all sleep deprived from the day before (even little R slept in until 9!), and didn't leave the hotel until around 11. Once out and about, we made our way to a typical Hong Kong breakfast place, which served sweet buns, toast covered in butter, noodles, eggs and sausage, and other delicious things. I had a breakfast set of a sweet bread bun, noodles with grilled beef, and the strongest tea I've ever drunk. It was so strong that once I drank it, my head was buzzing: the tea equivalent of espresso. B and our friend got yingyong tea, which is a Hong Kong specialty: super strong tea and coffee mixed with milk and lots of sugar. B felt doubtful about it, because he thought the coffee would overpower the tea; but because their tea is so strong, it's delicious (I couldn't experience it myself due to my milk allergy). For three people, the bill was about $7 and it was all great, so it's not surprising the restaurant was crowded with locals.

Then we made our way to the central piers (took the subway this time, which is clean and efficient) and took the Star Ferry across the harbor to Kowloon, another must-do. The views are great, and the boat is a real slice of Hong Kong history (the one we took was from 1960), full of people from every walk of life. It's also a bargain: a ticket is about 30 cents.

On the other side, we looked around the malls near the harbor, which stock every possible designer and luxury brand known to man, most at cheaper prices than available elsewhere. Apparently more than 50% of all luxury goods are sold in Asia, and probably a lot of them in Hong Kong. One of these malls also had the nicest baby facilities I have seen, with marble walls and a tiny child-size toilet, in addition to recliners for feeding and changing tables.

Then we made our way to the excellent Hong Kong Museum of History. The museum starts with the geological structure of the territory, and explores prehistory, the different ethnic groups and their traditions, the Opium War and the British takeover, the development of Hong Kong as an international trade center, the Second World War, and Hong Kong's growth into first a manufacturing center, and then a financial/management one. It was a fantastic museum, and really enlightening for understanding how Hong Kong developed. The last section, about Hong Kong's return to China, had been done in Communist style and was thus both bad and boring, so we skipped it.

Afterwards we were hungry, so we went to another local noodle place (really good again) and then back to the hotel, where little R rested. At 5 pm I woke her up and we went book shopping (to a very famous bookstore, originally in Shanghai, which was one of the centers of the modern Chinese literature movement in the 1920s and 30s). I spent $100 there as books are my weakness, and they were so cheap! (I could have easily spent $1000, no problem). Then we went back to Central, where we took the Central Mid-Levels escalator, the longest outdoor escalator in the world (yet another sign of the Chinese dislike of physical exertion). It was fascinating to see all the stores, street life and neighborhoods as we rode by on our elevated platform.

Little R and I went back to the hotel to rest, but B and our friend went out for drinks at a bar full of hip Hongkongers watching soccer (very surprising given the typical Chinese disinterest in sports; must be the British influence).

Day 1 in Hong Kong

Typical Hong Kong street scene: note the monk on his cell phone

We flew out of Singapore early in the morning on October 1st (meaning we had to wake up at 5:30, too early as we were up until 1 am the night before). Beyond a bad experience at the Jetstar check-in counter, the flight was uneventful and we cleared customs by 1 pm.

Unfortunately our friend's flight (he was flying Cathay Pacific) was delayed 3.5 hours. We were supposed to meet at the airport, but once we figured the delay out (took about an hour), little R was getting pretty tired, so we decided to head for the hotel on our own. Hong Kong has an express train which runs from the airport to Central station on Hong Kong Island (where our hotel was), so we took that, and then a taxi as we weren't sure exactly how to get to the hotel (our friend was the one with the directions).

We stayed at the Lanson Place Hotel, which our friend selected (B and I stay in budget hotels unprompted). It was quite nice and had a lot of amenities, like a kitchenette, a nice gym, and in-room cocktail delivery service. The kitchenette seemed like a good idea, but actually wasn't since you can get fresh, delicious food any time of day or night for like $4. Things I liked about the hotel: good views; that all the taxi drivers knew where it was; the location; really effective air conditioning. Things I didn't like: internet access was pretty expensive (it should be free!); somewhat snooty staff; rather unappealing public areas. Overall it was fine if not fantastic: since I don't really care about hotels it wasn't a concern for me.

Our friend eventually made it to the hotel, and after little R and I took a nap, the four of us ventured out into the city. We ate the first of many delicious meals at a little hole-in-the-wall noodle place full of locals, and then walked a couple hours to the Peak Tram station, marveling at the immense crowds and sheer urban density of it all. Little R marveled too: it was really cute to watch her staring at all the tall buildings in wonder.

Then we took the Peak tram. It's an incredible experience and definitely a must-do. The tram was built in 1888 and goes up a 27 degree hill, creaking along on the original tracks. The views are spectacular. Once we reached the top, we found a place to watch the National Day fireworks (Oct. 1st is the Chinese Fourth of July). They were absolutely amazing, the best I have ever seen (which is appropriate as fireworks were invented by the Chinese), and watching them with the Hong Kong skyline in the background was very special.

We left before the show was quite done, as it was really crowded up there and standing in line for hours to return home did not seem appealing with a baby. But then we realized that there was a walking trail down to the city, so we took that! It was almost empty (Chinese people hate all forms of exercise), and wound through the subtropical jungle, down steep hills with great views all the way. It was so much fun! Then we took a taxi back to the hotel.

Off to Hong Kong

Today B, little R and I are flying to Hong Kong for 4 days with A, our friend from the US. He's never been to Hong Kong before (and of course little R hasn't either!).

B and I went there courtesy of the US Government back in 2009, when he was a Fulbright scholar. (I don't know why the government thought it was a good idea to take all the scholars away from their research to go on an all-expenses-paid junket to Hong Kong and Macao, but they did.) Poor B had to spend pretty much all his time in Hong Kong in boring meetings (even the evenings were mostly accounted for with swanky cocktail parties, much to his chagrin) but I got to tour the city instead.

I loved Hong Kong: it's modern and traditional at the same time, beautiful, and exciting (so much to do and see!). Things I plan on doing: tour Sheung Wan and visit Man Mo Temple; visit the Hong Kong Museum of History; take the ferry to Lantau and see the Giant Buddha, Po Lin Monastery and Ngong Ping Village; and see Chi Lin Nunnery. Since I am going with B and A, we will also eat a lot of food (they are both obsessed)! I think it will be a fun trip.