Mothers' Day in Khao Lak

For Mothers' Day we went to Khao Lak near Phuket, Thailand. Like every other time we've been there (3 or 4, B and I couldn't remember) we stayed at the JW Marriott, which B likes for the enormous swimming pool that snakes around the property, allowing you to swim from the lobby to your room, the beach or the restaurants if you are so inclined (it is supposedly the longest in Southeast Asia). I like the pool too, but my favorite part is the beautiful white sandy beach teeming with small marine life (lots of hermit crabs).

R loves the pool, the breakfast buffet, and taking bubble baths in the enormous tub (we don't have a real bathtub at home, so it's a special treat for her).

She actually hates the beach, so getting her to go there is like pulling teeth. (She is scared of the waves and dislikes the sand on her skin.) But it's so beautiful!

She did have a good time once she was there. Here she is singing a song she made up.

Leaping and cavorting on the beach: so cute!

Right after these pictures she got tired, had a meltdown, and had to be removed from the beach while shrieking about how she was sandy and hated the sand and just wanted to go watch TV. Such is life with a preschooler sometimes (and to be fair to R, most of the time she is an immensely cheerful and delightful companion). It's a good reason to take photos though, I can look at these of her dancing around and remember just the positive parts of the vacation!

Girls' Weekend Out

This is a highly unusual post, because I am writing it ahead of time (I usually write posts in the evening, after R is in bed, and then publish them immediately, thus the low standard of writing). That is because right now I am here!!!

Or nearly (that picture is from Khao Lak, about an hour north). I am spending the weekend with two of my girlfriends in beautiful Phuket, Thailand, without children, husbands or any responsibilities beyond deciding which book to read first and which spa treatment to get. It should be amazing and extremely relaxing. Be back soon!

Thailand 2013: Bangkok--Museum Siam and Loha Prasat

Longtails on the Chao Phraya, Wat Arun in the background

After our fun time in Ayutthaya, we left on a sour note: shortly after boarding the train back to Bangkok, I realized the beloved and essential Ami was missing, fallen off the tuk tuk somewhere between the hotel and the train station. Such a disaster! But there was nothing to be done and no point in going back, as she could be anywhere (and was basically a dirty rag, hardly the sort of thing prompting passerby interest). The only bright point was that R did not initially notice the loss, meaning I could break the bad news to her (and handle the subsequent fallout) in the comfort of our hotel room, rather than in a crowded train car.

R at the Le Meridien

When we were in Bangkok before, we were not paying and thus stayed at the Peninsula. We downgraded a bit this time to the Le Meridien: which was very nice indeed.

I loved the location, right in the thick of things (and within convenient walking distance to the subway, important as Bangkok's traffic is heinous). R mostly liked it for the enormous dog sculpture at the entrance.

Usually when visiting somewhere I feel compelled to check off as many attractions as humanly possible: but since I had already done this in Bangkok, we were free to take a slower pace. We took the public water taxi, which was a great way to see another side of the city (it used to be known as the "Venice of the East": before modernization everything revolved around the river and its connecting canals).

R is entranced by the lively river

Some of the many houses built on stilts over the river

I love it!

It's public transportation for Bangkok, so the people are a good cross-section of the city's population: people on their way to work, school kids, monks and tourists of all stripes and agendas

We visited a new museum, Museum Siam Discovery, which has all kinds of great interactive exhibits, making it extremely child friendly. If you are traveling with kids, this is a must see (especially given the convenient location, right near the Royal Palace and other more famous tourist destinations).

R likes this because she thinks it looks like a "ho ho" (pirate) ship

Driving the tuk tuk on display was a big hit

Cool art installation in the stairwell

Interactive exhibit allowing kids to create "weather" through drumming

We ate lots of delicious food: Thai cuisine is my favorite in Southeast Asia, and like always it did not disappoint.

One of the restaurants we ate at: isn't it cute?

Here's my dinner, the Thai equivalent of fajitas (wrap the condiments--peanut sauce, shreds of coconut, limes, shrimp, onions, peanuts, chilis, and garlic--in lettuce leaves and enjoy). OMG this was amazing!

R loves the pink taxis: why doesn't everywhere have them? So cheery.

Enjoying the breeze in the tuk tuk

My favorite destination was rather unexpected, a temple I had never heard of previously: Loha Prasat. I only went here as the Thai Tourism board was having some sort of promotion where admission to Museum Siam included a free pass to Loha Prasat, but it turned out to be stunningly beautiful and unique.

Loha Prasat (top spire was under renovation)

R collecting informational literature: she LOVES this stuff and will study it for long periods

This is the way up: a good workout!

Peeking around the corner to see...

Simple, beautiful geometrically balanced halls totally empty of tourists or anyone else. It was so peaceful.

It is a 36 meter high building with 37 metal spires, comprised of five concentric square towers: inside, the supporting pillars create a kind of labryrinth, used as meditation chambers. It was constructed according to ancient Buddhist principles and is the only surviving one of its kind. (It is currently under consideration by UNESCO for inclusion on the World Heritage List.)

R pointing out Buddhas to me

All the halls are almost the same: it is very disorienting yet soothing. I felt like I had exited into Alternateland.

Staircase going up 

The floors include interior openings, one reason the building is so full of light

At roof level. Further up is a splendid view of the city (which I forgot to photograph).

R found a broom in the corner and was very sad when I wouldn't let her play with it. 

She also loved this hose. I find it fascinating to see what toddlers are interested in. 

Next to Loha Prasat is a more traditional temple, closed for services during our visit. I was impressed by the exterior decoration however.

R always insists on packing and bringing her own bag. She really does use the stuff in it though, so I encourage the habit (Here she is looking for a brochure). 

Bangkok is a great city to visit: the food and of course nightlife are excellent, the cultural attractions unique and interesting, prices are reasonable (at least by Western standards), service is good...It is also an easier place to travel as a Western tourist than many other destinations, which does have its downsides (hordes of tourists and the places that cater to them, for instance). Overall, though, it is one of my favorite cities in the region.

Thailand 2013: Touring Ayutthaya

The only real reason to go to Ayutthaya is to see temples. The modern town has only 50,000 inhabitants and as far as I know nothing of note. The ancient city, though, had a multinational population (significant communities of Portuguese, Persians and Japanese were present, among others) of around 1 million and was the seat of the Thai dynasty, so that there are a multitude of interesting ruins.

R outside the museum checking out their darling elephant lawn decor: no photos inside. The displays are worth a visit though the interpretation/signage is of little use.

R with one of the Buddhas 

They are obviously very relaxed about ruin exploration: sometimes developing nations are awesome

Famous Buddha head among the tree roots

With R for scale

Stork

The true devotee could probably spend a week viewing everything, since it was once one of the world's largest urban areas. We spent three days there, which is probably about enough for most people.

Me doing my very favorite thing: ruin viewing! 

One of the things I liked best about Ayutthaya is that it is still an inhabited city, meaning that the impressive ruins are interspersed with modern structures and many of the temples are still in use. It also makes touring much easier, because shade, cold drinks and transportation are always only a short walk away (ruins in SE Asia are inevitably unpleasantly hot and sunny, since plant life is not good for buildings).

R rehydrating with a fresh coconut 

R hates the sun so I lent her my sunglasses

Offering on a temple fence

An active temple, Viharn Monkholbopit

Another temple: I like the water bottle offerings; Gods get thirsty too!

This statue scared yet fascinated R: she is wearing a skull necklace

Mechanical monk which will squeak out blessings if you put a coin in: big hit with R!

Another machine inside a temple, this one some form of roulette: spin the wheel and see what mood Buddha's in!

Ancient Buddha statue from around 700 AD, Wat Na Phramen

Resident monk (Wat Na Phramen is an active monastery) wanted to bless R: she found him frightening so that's as close as she would get

We took a tuk tuk between ruins (at R's request, the tuk tuks were probably her favorite thing about Thailand). Some people rent bicycles (though then you must be prepared for excessive sweating, there is a reason scooters are the transport method of choice) or taxis; there were also boat cruises available (which we didn't do, something I regret) and elephant rides.

R got an overpriced tuk tuk toy

Chillaxing in the tuk tuk

View from the tuk tuk (the ancient city is surrounded by water, remnants of the moat)

I wrote before about how riding elephants is something to do with caution, and Ayutthaya was a good example of why. I called them the "slave elephants" while we were there, which I think is an accurate description. The chained baby elephant broke my heart (I fantasized about buying it and rescuing it from abuse and misery): not only was it filthy (even though elephants need daily baths) and chained up so tightly it couldn't really move, but it was all alone. Baby elephants in the wild aren't weaned until 4 or 5, and are in almost contact physical contact with their mothers

Slave elephants: they march back and forth on this path all day long

Dirty abused baby elephant

It can barely move because its leash is too short

Leaving aside the sad elephants, though, I really enjoyed Ayutthaya. Thanks for the recommendation UNESCO!